Ryan and I are in Taiwan visiting Taitung and a few other cities.
More on the Taitung stories in a later blog post but today, we are in Kaohsiung. Our day in this southern city of Taiwan encapsulated the mrbrown School of Travel:
We were cycling around Kaohsiung on free Giant bicycles provided by our wonderful hotel, and we stumbled upon a ferry terminal and scores of motorcyclists and some cyclists boarding it. (Note to self: Install a basket on my bicycles when I get home. Bicycle baskets rule.)
Me: "Let's go!"
Ryan: "Yeah!"
Me, after we board the ferry: "What pier were we at just now ah?"
Ryan: "Not really sure."
Me: "Where does this ferry go ah?"
Ryan: "Dunno also."
Me: "Cool!"
So here I was, following the locals up the We-Don't-Know-Where-This-Goes ferry. We parked our steeds at one side, so as not to block others boarding the ferry.
For someone who doesn't know where he is going, I looked pretty pleased with myself.
This kid is so darn cute.
After a short voyage, it was time to disembark.
When we got off the ferry, we finally checked our map app and found out this is Cijin Ferry Pier.
And where we boarded the ferry was Gushan Ferry Pier. ORH, now we know.
Heng the ferry didn't take us to Hong Kong or something. That would be bad, because we didn't pack a change of underwear in our daypacks.
Cijin turned out to be quite fun to cycle around. We rode along Cijin Coast Park and also went up to the Cihou Fort.
I know, I know. I am very random.
Caption: The Author at OCBC Cycle in 2015.
The LTA has released their Rules and Code of Conduct for cyclists and users of electric bicycles and Personal Mobility Devices (PMD). I thought all in all, this was a fairly reasonable approach. You can see the document here. Based on the Recommendation Paper by the Active Mobility Advisory Panel.
In summary:
Bicycles: footpaths, cycling paths and roads can.
Electric Bicycles: footpaths cannot, cycling paths and roads can.
PMDs like e-scooters: footpaths and cycling paths can, roads cannot.
Footpath speeds are limited to 15km/h and cycling path speeds are limited to 25km/h.
I am glad they took electric bicycles off the footpaths. Also good, more stringent specs for what constitutes an electric bicycle (must be pedal-assist only, less than 20kg, max 250W electric motor, below 25km/h, must comply with European Standard, EN15194). This removes the electric motorbikes from the equation.
Also interesting are the allowed specs for e-scooters: Below 20kg, below 70cm in width and no faster than 25km/h. This kills off the huge e-scooters that can go at silly speeds like Inokims and Zoom Airs. They have a non-exhaustive list of the non-approved scooters here.
Two abreast cycling is now allowed on roads with at least two lanes in the same direction, except roads with bus lanes during bus lane hours.
Lights are now required for front and back, and switched on during darkness (it used to be just reflectors needed only). This applies to bicycles, e-bikes and PMDs. I support this wholeheartedly.
All this talk about cycling is making me reminisce about cycling in Portland last year in September. I miss Portland. And cycling in Amsterdam and Denmark too.
This was Portland in September 2015:
This was in Copenhagen in May 2015:
Quote of the Day: "My biggest fear is that when I die my wife will sell my bicycles for what I told her they cost."
For the record, this vintage mixte didn't cost a bomb but it is priceless in its own way because it was the last bicycle Uncle Teck made for me before Song Seng Chan bicycle shop closed after more than 80 years operating in Katong.
Update: The folks at NParks kindly replied: "We are glad to hear that you enjoy using it and cycling through Kallang Riverside Park daily. We would just like to explain that the bridge repairs will take more time than usual because the works are extensive and our workers need to access the river to patch up the bridge columns with concrete. Public safety is our priority, so we want to ensure that the repairs are done well. Hope you understand our efforts and thank you for your patience in the meantime."
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Dear NParks, please fasterly repair this bridge so that I can return to cutting through your lovely Kallang Riverside Park on my way to work. First quarter 2014 is so far away!
Thank you!
Just tried the newly created PCN near Circuit Road and Aljunied Road and saw this sign.
In front of an overheard bridge.
With no ramps.
What?!
Or maybe I'm wrong and the sign means someone will carry your bike for you up and down the overhead bridge as you walk leisurely in front.
I think LTA and NParks people who plan PCNs should be made to ride their paths with 20kg Flying Pigeon bicycles.
Not all of us own $2200 Bromptons, ok?
That said, I appreciated the parts of the new PCN that worked. It was pleasant to ride to work almost completely on bike paths.
Ryan and I are preparing to leave Rome for Milan in our Hertz rental car (it is a massive Nissan EV200 van). We also added the Glass and Tires coverage (we like to insure ourselves to the max), the NeverLost GPS (it is a new TomTom model and a road trip lifesaver) and a Hertz Mobile Wifi package. Yes, we have a unlimited 3G 21.6Mbps daily with a Huawei 3G wifi router that can be shared with more than one device. It saved us the trouble of getting prepaid simcards for both our phones and we now have internet in the vehicle and everywhere else.
In fact, I am typing and uploading this on the highway now. Don't worry, Ryan is driving, not me.
But before leaving for Milan, I thought I'd share some more thoughts and photos on Rome.
After a day of riding around Rome, I have come to develop a strong sense of survival. The drivers mostly treat traffic lights and traffic rules like opinions and the pedestrians are the same.
You know why no one walks and uses smartphones on the streets of Rome? They have all been run over by Roman cars and scooters already. As a friend said, there are only two kinds of pedestrians in Rome: the Quick and the Dead.
The driving here is best described in Hokkien terms as Boh Hew and Gar Gar Lai.
We prepared our Moulton and Bike Friday bicycles in the room and rode out in the slight drizzle. No one seemed to be affected by the rain, gamely queuing to get into attractions like Vatican City.
From what I can surmise, Rome's economy is driven mainly by Bangladeshis selling souvenirs and ponchos/umbrellas when it rains. The hardworking fellows were everywhere, peddling their wares to all and sundry. One fellow I saw offered to shield an irate elderly gentleman with his huge umbrella while trying to persuade him to buy one of his fine mini-umbrellas.
People here smoke a lot. Shopkeepers smoke, young people smoke, and even the cops nonchalantly light up on duty.
Still, despite the smoking and the chaos, it is a beautiful city full of old buildings and history, and streets made of cobblestones that can throw you and your bicycle into the air if you are not careful.
We spent quite a bit of time walking too, to soak in the sights, the sounds and sometimes, the smells. We decided to try the subway here, to get to the Colosseum. You pay a flat rate of €1,50 for a ticket to take the subway in one direction for up to 100 minutes. The turnstiles don't take the ticket back when you exit so I am not sure how this is enforced. Maybe there are random inspections.
You can also pay €6 for an all-day subway pass.
This is the obligatory photo of the Colosseum, or Colosseo, as the Italians call it. Carved on some of the walls nearby, I saw a few maps that showed the extent of the Roman Empire. The Romans certainly owned quite a bit of Europe back in the day.
The neighboring area around the Colosseo is quite pleasant to walk around. We walked into a coffee place and when the barista asked if we were taking away or having here, and we said, having here (it was raining outside).
We should have suspected something when the waiter offered us the cafe wifi password without us asking. "The service very good hor?" we told each other.
Then our coffees came. "The caffè latte very nice to drink hor?" we said, impressed by the taste and the service.
Our lattes cost us €18 total. That's almost S$30. Ouch.
I will leave you with something I read in a travel forum as I was searching for hotels to book:
HEAVEN is:
Where the mechanics are German
the policemen are English
the cooks are French
the lovers are Italian
and everything is run by the Swiss.
HELL is:
Where the mechanics are French
the policemen are German
the cooks are English
the lovers are Swiss
and everything is run by the Italians.
Ryan and I were in KL over the weekend to ride at OCBC Cycle Malaysia, the second year this event has been held in Malaysia.
We brought along two foldies, a pink Moulton TSR and a white Tyrell fx, with super-comfy Rido saddles, kindly sponsored by onesport for our 48km Challenge ride. We also shot some video with our sponsored Looxcie HD cameras. I will share that in a later post.
We were joined by bloggers like @Sivasothi a.k.a. Otterman who blogs at Cycling in Singapore, Kevin a.k.a. @BrainOpera and other media friends like Shawn and Adrian.
We spent Saturday watching the races like the Men’s Open and Masters’ Criteriums, where the pros showed us how fast they can ride.
In the photo below is the lead dancer of a group that did a dance number just before the Men's Open Criterium.
Ryan muttered to me just before the pre-race dance began, "They'd better not be doing Gangnam Style…" and just as he finished that sentence, the overplayed music of Psy kicked in. It was like a pre-Criterium war dance of joy.
As for this next photo, I have no idea how it got into my camera. I think her role was to pass the prizes and the starting airhorn to the VIPs.
On Sunday morning, we woke up at 4am and met at 5.45am at our hotel lobby for the short ride to the starting point at KLCC.
Yes, FOUR. A. M.
That is the time I usually go to SLEEP but I was a good boy and slept early on Saturday night.
Kevin was there with his Pugsley and its giant tires (it drew a LOT of attention). That's Shawn Chung behind Kevin, who rides like the wind (he overtook us on his third lap while Ryan and I were at our second of four laps around KLCC).
Siva was there with more lights on his bike than a Christmas tree. He is a kindred spirit because I love lights too. Siva took a photo of me adjusting my timing chip on my Moulton.
When all of us were assembled, we rode to join the riders at KLCC and found ourselves in front of the second wave. I have no idea how we ended up there but Kevin has a photo of us poised to go.
I looked like i was high on cough mixture in that photo.
Ryan and I fell behind, to the back of the pack very quickly but we knew our own pace. We were to do four laps around Suria KLCC, a total of 48km.
Once we started riding, we realized how many slopes there were in the route. Good grief, some of these inclines went on forever. But once you reached the top, bombing downhill was fast and fun. We also got to see the potholed streets of KL, and it took some maneuvering to avoid them.
Kevin has a photo of the road marshal who bravely stood for an hour warning cyclists to slow down before a dangerous sinkhole.
There were some riders who overestimated themselves and pengsan-ed by the second lap. There were a few who buanged but no one was seriously hurt, I think. Some rode too fast over humps or huge cracks on the road, and blew their skinny racing tires out, requiring a tube change by the road.
What was amazing was that the organizers managed to close so many roads in the heart of KL for those few hours on Sunday morning. Although that did not stop one or two stubborn Malaysian cars and motorbikes from trying to break into the closed roads filled with us cyclists. They got a lot of "Oi!" and shouts of "Idiot!" from all of us.
While others were trying to beat their personal times, Ryan and I had but one goal: to finish our 48km Challenge in time for breakfast back at the hotel. You can tell we have our priorities straight. And in case you are wondering, we did make it in time for the buffet. It was a fun weekend indeed.
Chicago is such a marked contrast from Ann Arbor. This is the Big City personified, with high rise buildings everywhere, and old buildings standing next to the swanky new ones.
When I got here, the temperature was 24°C, a little unusual for this time of year. I even complained that I didn't get to wear my warm clothing. Me and my big mouth because the next evening, it plunged to 7°C with rain and winds. And it's the wind that gets you, cutting into you like a blade. I understood finally why they call Chicago the Windy City.
I love the old buildings here, like The Fourth Presbyterian Church of Chicago.
I also made my pilgrimage to the Vivian Maier exhibition at the Chicago History Museum. She is one of my favourite street photographers, and she captured people and the cityscape in her photographs, most of it in Chicago.
And of course, I found a little time to cycle my Bike Friday Tikit in Chicago. One fine afternoon, after lunch, I rode along the 18-mile-long Lakefront Trail that hugs the coast of Lake Michigan.
From my hotel, a short ride on the street took me to this funky tunnel to the trail.
Then it was just 18 miles (or 29km) of sweet bike path with a most gorgeous view.
At the south end of the Lakefront Trail is Navy Pier, a major tourist attraction.
At the north end of the trail, there are other parks, small harbors and scattered sculptures.
I cycled with my jacket, gloves and wooly hat, and found it warm enough for riding in 10°C temperatures. You generate heat once you ride a little harder.
By the time I headed back to the hotel, I could see the blinking lights of other riders, making their way home by bike as the sun set. I wish I had more than two days here to explore more of the Windy City. I shan't wish for cold winds next time though.
I had great time speaking to the Singaporeans in Ann Arbor, Michigan. There were many students and some working adults.
I also met some married couples with babies. They got do national duty leh!
I think we brought the warm weather to Ann Arbor. It's supposed to be 6-9°C in the day here but it has been 24°C for the last two days. I just needed to wear just my t-shirt (and pants lah) to cycle my Bike Friday Tikit (thanks My Bike Shop!)
Zingerman's was one of the first stops we made. They make the awesomest sandwiches. I had the corned beef Reuben. Yum.
Ann Arbor is lovely in the fall. The colours are everywhere and the university town has a laid back character that I totally enjoyed.
I spent most of my time riding around the Huron River. It has a lovely bikeway and you can even canoe on the river. I rode as far north as Barton Pond, and also rode past Argos Cascade, Bandemer Park, and the Cedar Bend Nature Area in the south.
It was a lovely ride and I am glad I brought the bicycle along.
In other news, I am ensuring that I am properly moisturized while I am here in the US. But trust my wife to give me a body lotion that has "jojoba and shea butter" for my trip. I smell womanly now. And yummy too.
We didn't get enough of Taipei's bikeways so we decided to ride westward on the Danshui River Bikeway (淡水腳踏車道), also known as the Tamsui Bikeway. This was way more challenging because there was a hill in our planned route.
We rode our Tern Link P9 and Bike Friday Tikit folding bicycles provided by My Bike Shop along the Danshui River Bikeway, which is not as pretty as the Keelung River one, but still very functional to ride on. The weather today was hot, and the sun was going to make us tanned hunks (or more like Bak Kua). We made sure to drink lots of water to avoid heat exhaustion.
We had a cold Chin Chow drink at the street of 景文街 (Jingmei St) where the 景美夜市 (night market) is. It was a much needed stop.
After we rode past the Taipei Zoo and Maokong Gondola (貓空纜車), we finally reached our biggest challenge: going up Fudekeng hill (福德坑復育園區, Fudekeng Repopulation Park). We tried riding for a while but eventually had to push our bikes up.
It was doubly hard because we made a wrong turn somewhere and bombed downhill only to realise we made a mistake, and had to push our bikes uphill twice.
There are two major things on the hill. The refuse collection services and cemeteries. Not exactly very lovely things to look. There were sculptures in the park and when we got to the top, the view was surprisingly awesome.
It was definitely worth the effort.
We then went downhill (the most fun part) towards 中華科技大學 (China University of Science and Technology) and cycled towards the Keelung River Bikeway that would take us home.
By the time we got back to the hotel, we had ridden more than six hours and my face was salty. But it was a fun and rewarding day. I spent a long time taking my shower (to get clean lah).
Here is map of the route we took on our Second Day of Riding:
Tomorrow, Saturday the 21st of May, is Ride of Silence again.
The ride, in honor of those who have been injured or killed while cycling on public roadways, will begin at Marina Bay Sands Promenade and it will be a 20km loop.
Registration is at 8am, and ride begins at 10am. Helmets are mandatory.
Details at the Ride of Silence, Singapore site.
This year, I lost a good cycling buddy, Paul Lim, who was killed when a drunk driver hit the lorry he was hitching a ride on. The impact was so great, the lorry tipped over.
Paul was on his way to Desaru to ride his Moulton folding bicycle when this accident happened. He is survived by his widow Sandra and two sons, 12 and 14. Donations to his family are welcome.
You can read more about the tragedy at the My Bike Shop Blog.
We will miss riding with you, Paul.
I suddenly realised I haven't written about riding for a while. Riding my bicycles to work and most places has become such a daily routine for me that it is something I take for granted.
As an update, I have since given one of my mountain bikes away, sold the Dahon Curve to a friend, and bought this Raleigh MV-7 Mini-velo (mini-bike). It doesn't fold but it has 20-inch wheels and an entry-level 7-speed Shimano drivetrain. Not an expensive bicycle but very fun and functional to ride.
I added some bits I had left over, like a brown Brooks B-17 Special saddle and Dia-Compe brake levers, and also bought a cheap inverted handlebar, smaller Tekto brakes, and 1-inch-wide Maxxis Overdrive Elite tires. Not a very expensive makeover as well.
My daily ride is still my Dahon Mu P24 folding bicycle, my workhorse. But it is nice to have a little variety in life.
While looking at mini-velos, I also happened to stumble upon my own site while browsing one of my favourite bicycle sites, Cycle Chic™ from Copenhagen. My site was on the list of Cycle Chic™ Suggests. I am most honoured.
Cycle Chic™ is still one of the leading sites that promote Style Over Speed, a philosophy of riding that I most agree with. I visit the site just to see beautifully dressed people riding their bicycles, instead of the usual sports-and-lycra photos.
You can go on and on about the hot and rainy weather, the road conditions and the inconvenience of riding in Singapore but you won't convince me. I've been doing this for almost four years now and enjoying every minute of it. Every time the COE goes up, or the ERP charges increase, I just laugh it off. Every time the public transport system strains harder under the increased population load, I give thanks for my two wheels getting me where I need to go with minimal fuss.
Yes, I get some exercise too. But that's not my main reason to keep riding. I do it because it still is a lot of fun. Nothing beats the feeling of the cool night air, right after it has rained, wrapping itself around your face as you drive your bicycle at a leisurely pace.
I will leave you with this article from Grist.com, entitled "How bicycling will save the economy (if we let it)". While it is based on the US economy, the lessons there also apply for Singapore.